Article Archives

Sort by
Matt_badge-small_thumb Matt Ellsworth
Sep 01, 2010

Film icon Edward James Olmos to meet with Scholars

Centennial Lecturer Edward James OlmosIn 1985, the Flinn Foundation made a grant to Arizona State University establishing an endowment in honor of the the university's 100th anniversary. The endowment gave birth to the Centennial Lecture, one of the premier annual cultural events at ASU.

A great perk for Flinn Scholars: because of the lecture's tie to the Foundation, each Centennial Lecturer's weeklong stay at ASU includes a session with current Flinn Scholars (from any of Arizona's universities).

During my own undergraduate experience as a Scholar, there were few experiences more invigorating than those sessions with the Centennial Lecturer--luminaries like naturalist Stephen Jay Gould, journalist James Fallows, and writer Annie Dillard.

So a word of advice to current Scholars: Get your organic-chemistry homework done early and don't miss the chance to meet Edward James Olmos, one of the premier actors working today, who will be meeting with Scholars on October 10.

Those of you in the broader community: Olmos will present his public lecture, entitled "We're All in the Same Gang," on October 12. It's free. It's timely. You can read more about it on the Barrett Honors College website.

Tags: asu, centennial lecture, flinn scholars
Matt_badge-small_thumb Matt Ellsworth
Jul 30, 2010

What is the Flinn Scholarship worth?

The value of the Flinn Scholarship

Between late next month, when Flinn Scholarship applications go live, and the middle of next May, when we announce the Class of 2011, one of the most frequently asked questions that Foundation staff will receive is:

"So, what is the Flinn Scholarship worth?"

Sometimes, I can just about see the wheels turning in an applicant or parent's mind as I rattle off what the award provides--an allotment for study and travel abroad, funding for room and board, the value of eight semesters of tuition provided by the university. Add it up, and you have a sum near $90,000.

People tend to hear that number in a couple of different ways.

For some people (this was me in the fall of 1993), it sounds almost like the Powerball jackpot, the kind of largess that would change one's life. I was one of those applicants for whom it was either win the Flinn Scholarship or scrape together work-study, a partial scholarship, tons of loans, and still be living pretty frugally--definitely lacking the resources for study abroad, for example.

For other people, the monetary benefit of the scholarship sounds, well, small. I've quoted a figure that's almost insignificant. Over the course of a year or two of researching universities, they've gotten used to the idea of Ivy League sticker prices, to the extent that $200,000 for tuition alone has started to sound normal.

In either case, though, if I answer that question--"What is the Flinn Scholarship worth?"--by talking about money, I've given an answer that isn't really accurate. The Flinn Scholarship doesn't have that much to do with money.

I say that while fully aware of how beneficial it was to not have money worries as an undergraduate. My options expanded dramatically. My capacity to concentrate my energy on my studies, on creative pursuits, on campus activities, on travel--all of that was magnified tenfold by the modest financial freedom that the scholarship permitted me.

But still, the Flinn Scholarship doesn't have that much to do with money. I think this is closer to what it means:

A few weeks ago, I was emailing back and forth with a Scholar alum who was in town to visit family for the weekend. The alum told me that something wasn't right at home; the alum's father was showing indications of some kind of neurological problem. It wasn't an acute event like a stroke, but it had apparently been worsening rapidly over the course of several weeks. The alum, a young doctor, was growing worried.

Because I was about to leave on vacation, I didn't learn for more than a week what happened. The alum ended up taking the father to the emergency room at St. Joseph's Hospital and Medical Center the next day. Within 48 hours, he was in surgery at Barrow Neurological Institute to have multiple brain tumors removed.

Having recently lost my own father to a long struggle with cancer, I understood some of what the alum was experiencing. Still, there was really very little I could do to help. But I knew who could. I wrote the alum another email:

We have a Scholar alum who's the medical director of neurorehabilitation at Barrow. Christina Kwasnica has stayed in close contact with the Foundation, and I'm sure she would be receptive if you run in to any obstacles in the next little while. I'd be happy to put you in touch with her.

Christina Kwasnica, M.D. (Phoenix Magazine)Tina Kwasnica ('87), a graduate of Mesa Dobson High School, had returned to Arizona after med school at Northwestern University, and had soon enough assumed important clinical leadership roles at Barrow. Earlier this year, Phoenix Magazine called Tina (pictured on the right) one of metro Phoenix's five "most innovative physicians who are taking patient care into the next frontier."

The alum wrote me back late that night:

Ironically, Dr. Kwasnica is my dad's neurorehab doc and I just got off of the phone with her. I love the Flinn family. Now I am much more reassured, even though I haven't even met her in person, that my dad is getting terrific care. Isn't that funny?

How do you quantify the value of gaining a second family?  I can't. And that's why, when I meet an applicant or a parent, it can be so hard to answer their questions satisfactorily.

If I have enough time, I end up resorting to stories like this one. There are more of them, many more, stories that just about any current or alumni Flinn Scholar could tell of what the Flinn scholarship is really worth.

 


Photo by flickr user nathangibbs

Tags: 87, application season, christina kwasnica, medicine
Michael_young-author-small_thumb Michael Cochise Young
Jul 23, 2010

Celebrating the first 25 years of Flinn Scholars

Flinn Scholarship 25th Anniversary - Premier Arizona merit scholarship

Here at the Foundation, it can make our heads spin: how quickly Flinn Scholars go from being wide-eyed freshmen living in residence halls for the first time, to being attorneys, parents, small-business owners, research scientists, professional filmmakers--you name it.

Next month, the 25th class of Flinn Scholars begin their undergraduate adventures. With that milestone imminent, we think it's time to celebrate the growth of the Flinn Scholarship Program, the accomplishments of its participants, and the lifelong friendships to which it has given birth.

Actually, we've already begun our commemoration of the Scholars 25th year; our Recognition Dinner this past May was a wonderful chance to rekindle relationships with a few of our alumni and some of our longtime partners at Arizona's universities and in the community.

To continue the celebration, we're inviting our community of nearly 400 alumni to come home. October 1-3, we'll have a weekend-long reunion--we're imagining it as a grown-up version of the annual retreat we hold each August for current Scholars. The weekend will even include a "musicale" reminiscent of the talent show held at the retreat. And we are hoping to invite some of our current Scholars to join in with alumni for that particular activity.

(Alumni, you should already have a save-the-date card on your refrigerator, and you'll shortly receive a formal invitation to the reunion weekend.)

Next spring, we'll follow up with a series of one-day seminars addressing some of Arizona's most important contemporary concerns. Panelists at these seminars will include representatives from the Flinn Scholar alumni community in Arizona--now more than 120 strong. These are individuals making important contributions in a variety of fields, to make Arizona a better place for the next 25 years.

Tags: alumni reunion, flinn scholars
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 17, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Twenty-Two

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Nesima Aberra ('09)

Today was by far the most bittersweet day out of the entire Central European seminar. Bittersweet, because it was the most fun and engaging (in my opinion), while it meant we are near the end of the trip and will soon be leaving Hungary, our home away from home.

In the morning after eating breakfast, we took the metro to Graphisoft Park, an amazing park akin to Silicon Valley that hosts 40 companies from Microsoft to SAP and Servier. The park was very clean and well kept with elements of whimsical creativity and architecture that one would only expect to see around such talented designers. One sculpture that impressed us all was a giant Rubix cube on the lawn. We learned earlier in the trip that the Rubix cube was created by a Hungarian, so it was an obvious symbol of the country’s pride in their scientific and mathematical development.

Meeting Gabor Bajor, the entrepreneur who founded the Graphisoft company, the park and the Aquincum Institute of Technology was an amazing experience. Despite not being a business or science major, I was fascinated by his story of going from a physics major during the Communist-era Hungary to becoming a successful owner of a leading software firm.

Bajor craved bettering himself and bettering those around him, something that was looked down upon at his workplace under the Communist-style economy. His passion to compete and win made him realize that a free market with private ownership would be the most effective. As he said in his lecture, his goal was to “find people better than the owner.” Luckily, once private firms were legal in Hungary, Bajor jumped at the opportunity.

Bajor’s design company was cutting edge and had a competitive advantage because they were the first to do 3D modeling on PCs. This was easier and cheaper and would allow him to compete in the global market. His plan failed to garner attention from large oil companies and big corporations because they didn’t trust the idea, but Bajor said that architects were the perfect customers, because they are generally poorer and were happy to find such an affordable product.

This kind of business sense really connected with all of us and made me really admire Bajor’s passion for understanding his customers, paying attention to their mistakes and creating a product that serves the market best. Now that he has retired from Graphisoft, Bajor heads the Aquincum Institute of Techonology, which he hopes will train software engineers from abroad and make the school a competitor with American universities. According to Bajor, the 21st century is the century of the knowledge-based economy, so education is where his business mind is focused.

After listening to such a genius, we all had lots to talk about as we chowed down on a delicious pizza lunch in the Graphisoft cafeteria. We got to experience more creativity at the Ady Museum, dedicated to the great Hungarian poet Endre Ady. I had never heard of him before, but once reading through his poems with the guidance of our lecturer, Geza Kallay, I understood why he was so revered.

t was fun to analyze the poetry and discuss them with each other and then try our hand at writing our own poems at the Central Coffee House. Strangely, we had another lunch there, which was meant to be a very very early dinner since we would be later attending a ballet in the evening.  Somehow we managed to finish our meal, along with dessert and coffee, as we listened to each other’s hilarious and entertaining amateur poetry.

We had a bit of free time to get ready before the ballet in the evening, but most of us went back to get dressed up since it would be a fancy event. The ballet was nothing short of amazing. We were all given box seats, which gave us not only a great view of the stage but also an air of prestige that is quite uncommon for the average college student.

There were five different performances, but unanimously, the group loved the final performance, entitled Whirling, which featured beautifully executed choreography, hauntingly melancholy music and even rain. The audience was so into the ballet that the applause lasted for over 5 minutes and compelled the dancers to bow over and over again and even come out in front of the curtains once they were already drawn. This was very amusing to my friends and I, because it seemed a tad excessive, but nonetheless, the dancers certainly deserved it after such quality work.

The night ended with ice-cream sundaes at a café outside the opera house and a viewing of the France vs. Mexico soccer game. After such an eventful day experiencing various parts of Hungarian talents, I went to bed quite inspired by the level of cultural immersion we had but also sad that it is almost over.

Tags: 09, hungaromania, nesima aberra
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 16, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Twenty-One

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Galen Lamphere-Englund ('09)

Today was a much-needed day of rest, recuperation, and reflection. Frightfully early this morning we boarded our bus, which has begun to smell a tad off after several weeks of occupation, and Lszl began the long drive back to Budapest from Cluj-Napoca. After being roused barely an hour into our sleep we all lapsed back into silent, deep sleep during much of the eight hour ride.

There were a few moments of consciousness during the drive, and in those precious glimpses of light I found myself reflecting back on the past week in Transylvania. There has been beautiful humanity: the faces of our gracious hosts in Homorodszentpeter, the inquisitive looks from children outside the one store in Targu Mures; the bouncing Latin club in Cluj, filled with incredibly friendly Iraqi soldiers training with the Romanian military.

The remarkable bonds of commonality between all people is even more apparent here. Whether in small villages that are struggling with integrating into a modern world or in odd clubs that reek of years of smoke and dance, I see similar faces to ones I know back home. While conversing about esoteric political philosophy with a Croatian expatriate in a cozy bar in Pest, I realized, more viscerally than ever before, that there are no true differences between humans anywhere. I find personalities that I know everywhere I go. There are friends of kindred spirit, even though we have may never before met have met. Common faces, bodies, ideas, and, above all, a shared sense of humanity is impossible to escape once one desires to see them. The lessons spurred by that revelation have been potent ones. Our biases, largely created by superficial societies, engender such strong blinders over our eyes that we truly forget each other.

However, the lessons to be learned here by opening one's eyes are not limited to personal ones. While driving through the verdant farmlands of Translyvania I could not help but stare at the horrific testimonials to Chauchescu's tyrannical rule. One of the other Flinns remarked the all the buildings are black and dirty here, a symptom of the many years of unchecked pollution. Giant concrete industrial complexes litter the fields: nuclear reactors, coal power plants, and half-functioning, degrading train stations. Close to one of our stops earlier in the week lay Copsa Mica, one of the most polluted sites in all Europe, where all the trees for ten miles are stained with black soot even fifteen years after most functions stopped. The dictator's mad push for industrialization without any balancing or environmental checks has wrecked havoc on the environment and health of much of Romania. His concrete, Soviet bloc-style complexes for former village dwellers, erected over beautiful old sectors of towns, serve as reminders in the cities of that crazed drive.

Yet today stringent new EU regulations threaten to achieve what even Chauchescu could not: a complete elimination of small farmers and more harmonious village life. Instead of heeding the lessons of unchecked, perilous progress, the entire world is now forging ahead, led by Western industry, in foolishly forgetting the permacultural techniques employed in the old villages. Why do we, as a culture and modern world, continually seek to reinvent our ways in search of new "profits"? Why do we not instead look to the past and observe the lesson that have been taught before?

Perhaps this is the most potent lesson that I am being taught my our travels: Just as there are no different humans around the world, so too are there are no "new ideologies" or "grand ideas." New thoughts, new iterations perhaps, but no truly new individual ideas. Those belong to us all and they are immutable through human time and space. Romania has opened my eyes even wider to realize this truth.

Tags: 09, galen lamphere-englund, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 15, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Twenty

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Dawn Cole ('09)

Today was our last day in Cluj, and everyone was feeling a little gloomy as we began to realize that our time together was quickly coming to an end. Add to that the exhaustion and sadness from the previous night–it was Katherine’s last night with us, after all--and we were a shabby looking group I am sure.

The talk on environmental issues was unfortunately cancelled, but the final question-and-answer session with Zoltan proved to be a very good wrap-up of what we encountered in Romania. I am still amazed by people’s attitudes when they talk about the past--even as Zoltan described the oppression and fear of his childhood, he expressed no sense of need for revenge or retribution. It's as if the people are just tired after so many years of suffering and would rather save the energy to try to improve things than complain about things that cannot be changed. I really appreciate this because, although it is so logical, I personally have not encountered this mentality very often.

During the several hours of free time in the afternoon, Laurel and I visited the Botanical Gardens.  An explosion of 600 varieties of roses separated the present from the past as we left the crowded and noisy street and entered a full rain forest. I felt as though I was back in Costa Rica as we wandered through this temporal oasis. We also found statues of Ceres, the god of grain and cereals, keeping watch over traditional peasant gardens from the Roman age.

Zoltan told me later that much of the nearby Romanian countryside used to be covered by similar forest vegetation, but with the expansion and industrialization of cities, much of it was lost. It is hard to imagine that such serenity once existed in those now-hectic spaces stained by years of human inhabitance.

We walked through the cemetery on our way back to the city, and we took time to notice the birth and death dates. When I think of a cemetery, I have the somewhat “romantic” idea that the people buried there represent the “everyman" who worked and suffered alongside everyone else (I guess any concept of someone being “normal” is somewhat romantic in and of itself, but still).  But upon reflection, I realized that with so many people and so little space, and the size and spectacle of the headstones, these were no ordinary men and women.  They represented the elite, the well-connected, and the wealthy.

And again, pardon the pun, even here there is buried so much history. In one place we saw a set of at least eight graves sharing the same name. As we looked closer, we saw that they were all brothers, born in 1916, 1918, 1919, 1921… and they all shared the same fate, dying in 1944, 1945. Of the eight, only one--the sister--was spared. She still lives today, her gravestone just sitting there waiting to be finished.   

For me, this day just showed that the history of this place is everywhere--you just have to look a little closer to discover the story. It all makes me wonder--how aware are people living in these ancient cities of the history of the places that surround them? Does their knowledge of the past increase their sense of nationalism, or are they like the many Arizonans who have never visited the wonder of the world that sits in their backyard (the Grand Canyon)?  How much of their identity as a Hungarian or Romanian is tied to the physical infrastructure and how much is simply rooted in the culture of the people that surround them?  Do Hungarians miss their beloved land lost in the Treaty of Treanon with such passion because they lost those physical monuments that embody the past, or because of the lifestyles and peoples those lands supported?   And finally, just as the forests were transformed first to agricultural lands and then to cities, what will these cities eventually become? How will the complex histories of these lands shape their future?

Tags: 09, dawn cole, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 14, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Nineteen

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Adam Martinez ('09)

Several somnolent Scholars were greeted with a rudely early wake-up call in the form of gale-force winds  at four in the morning. Ultimately, the damage was small: one broken window in Sachi and Emma's sleeping quarters. Needless to say, it gave them quite a fright, and many of us rode out the rest of the storm questioning the structural integrity of each of our small huts.

The morning began again under better pretenses at around eight, when we awoke to the smell of fresh rain and the sound of birds chirping in Romanian. Herded by our responsible chaperones, we made our way to the bus to depart to Cluj. The next few minutes saw us waving goodbye to both the immaculate lawn, upon which the hotel management had forbidden us to tread, and the looming Rimetean mountain, to which the thunderstorm had likewise denied us access. We got settled on the bus and, after a bout of bleary-eyed yet blessedly-brief reflections, took advantage of the opportunity to supplement our meager sleep supply.

The duration of the actual bus ride remains a mystery. Each passenger was either still caught up in the previous eventful night, looking forward to Cluj, or happily dreaming of shower curtains, peanut butter, and marshmallows, three objects that the Iron Curtain seems to have permanently scared out of Central Europe.

We crested the last hill before the city of Cluj, the supposed laundry Mecca of Romania, a detail that was anything but unappreciated by this ragged band of sink-launderers. Unfortunately, we appeared to have been misled, as laundromats were as elusive there as they were in every other city we had visited. Nevertheless, our attitudes were far brighter than our travel-worn attire would suggest, and we marched on proudly, if somewhat odorously.

After a brief stop at the hotel to gather our wits, we were whisked away to the Faculty of Economics and Business Administration at Babe?-Bolyai University, the premier public university of Romania. Our lecture was on the Romanian economy, and it was given by Professor Michaela Lutas in a stuffy, humid room in which the air hadn't been conditioned until our arrival. By the time the atmosphere became bearable, the lecture had finished and we'd exhausted our questions. Regardless, it was quite informative, particularly about Romania's economy just prior to the economic downturn of 2008.

Next on the agenda was a themed video scavenger hunt in the heart of Cluj. Our gang of Flinn Scholars split into four smaller groups, each of which was handed a themed list of clues. The clues (perhaps objectives or directions would be more accurate) were the same for everybody, things like "Sing a Disney song in a public place" or "Taste an authentic Romanian dessert." The themes, however, differed, and included "Transition," "Contradiction," "History," and one that appears to have slipped my mind.

It's safe to say that this activity became the landmark experience of the day--not to suggest that our later folk-dancing lesson wasn't amazing as well. I'm positive that, during the scavenger hunt, each group experienced a great variety of wonderful things, but the only group I can truly speak for is my own. Our first stop was a public fountain swarming with children. It was here that we fulfilled our "Take a video of your group playing" clue. Several clues later and on our way to checking off the "Take a bus to a public monument" clue, we stopped by a fruit stand for sustenance in the form of a kilo of ripe cherries. The rest of the scavenger hunt was a big happy blur, with our enthusiastic, albeit roadweary, band of travelers proceeding fearlessly onward and leaving nothing but good memories and a trail of cherry pits in our wake.

Tags: 09, adam martinez, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 13, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Eighteen

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Matt Rolland ('05)

Days up and down they come
like rain on a conga drum
Forget most, remember some,
oh, but don't turn none away
Everything is not enough
Nothing is too much to bear
Where you've been is good and gone
All you keep is the getting there

-Townes Van Zandt, “To Live is to Fly”

These lyrics were floating in my mind as we left our cabins in Targu Mures. What a wonderful day and night it had been. The bonfire smoke clinging to my skin, the taste of fire-baked apples on my lips, memories of late-night philosophizing and cafeteria sing-alongs in my mind. We were all slow to let June 12 go. But as Townes sang, “where you've been is good and gone.” It was time to look ahead to more adventures further into Transylvania.

Sunday, June 13th saw us rising early for breakfast and a bleary-eyed bus trip. The drive to Torocko, called “Rimitea” in Hungarian, was a bumpy and quiet ride except for the occasional snore. By the time we arrived mid-afternoon, the group was ready for some movement. Despite the oppressive heat, a volleyball game was quickly struck up behind our cabins.

But not 30 minutes later, already overheated, we decided to head to the cool waters of the babbling creek. We threw off our shoes and cooled our toes in the frigid water. The adventurous rolled up their pants and waded to the deeper area of the stream. I say adventurous because wading quickly transitioned into playful shoving, which then turned into light splashing and soon morphed into a full-blown water fight. No one was the loser during the hot Romanian summer day.

Soaked and chilled, we oozed our way to the cafeteria hall for lunch and a lecture. Lunch included a new dish for our palettes: bean soup with sour cream. While the food in Targu Mures presented new experiences in general – pink sausages, white bean soups, sour cabbage – it was good to have our food comfort levels challenged.

After lunch, our Romanian guide, Zoltan Soos, gave a lecture on 'Modern Romania'. Zoltan provided a helpful historical perspective to understanding Romania as a confluence of many empires and cultures; Byzantine, Turkish, Russian, and Hungarian powers had all at some point controlled all or part of what we call “Romania.” Providing a new perspective on ethnic relations, Zoltan pointed out that ethnically homogeneous nations are a relatively modern phenomenon. During the Medieval period, empires usually included ten or twelve ethnic groups. Ethnically charged nationalism is a consequence of the French Revolution and the events of the 19th century.

In addition to being an ethnically complex country, Romania is a country in political and economy transition. Zoltan emphasized that even though modern Romania is a member of the EU, it is a weak and centralized economy. With the highest number of police, army, and secret-service employees, per capita, of any country in Europe (40% of Romanian public expenditure), the Romanian public sector is bound for budgetary problems in the same way that Greece and Spain have suffered during the last year. The government has announced an anticipated 25% reduction in government employee salaries. Watching Romania's response to this budget shortfall will be an interesting mirror to how we are dealing with our own budget problems in Arizona.

The presentation was interrupted by deafening claps of thunder. Heavy drops of rain began to pound the pavement outside the cafeteria. The wind howled through the lace window curtains, like rain on a conga drum. Crowded around like desert rats at a puddle, we stared out the windows and stuck our hands into the rain. Three Flinns even dashed outside to drench themselves in the deluge. With more black clouds on the horizon, our hike to the mountains had to be canceled.

Not to be deterred, the Flinns found a way to make the afternoon memorable. I looked around after lunch, frustrated by the rain. What I saw lifted my spirits as a chaperone. Everyone was playing rain volleyball, reading, playing cards under the ramada, taking group pictures. I smiled, it was almost as if the rain had been a planned activity. If there is one thing this class does really well it is to make the most of any situation, together. Forget most, remember some, oh, but don't turn none away.

When the rain subsided an hour later, we walked the mile into town. Walking through the cobblestone streets, admiring the towering cliffs, the village was a destination unto itself. After the sky continued to clear a bit, about half of the students, myself, Anne Marie, and our two Romanian guides, Zoltan and Unige, decided to hike to a castle more accessible than the mountain top. A cool wind blowing, the mile to the trailhead passed quickly. As we began to ascend the gravel trail, our spirits were soaring. High up on the hill, we could see a silhouette of a crumbling castle. The sun peeked out from behind the clouds, pushing us onwards and upwards. We were soon sprinting up the ridgeline, surrounded by wildflowers of purple and gold. Reaching the first plateau, we exchanged high fives all around and a few hollers ripped out from our chests, ringing out across the verdant hills. On the next hill over, a herd of white, brown and black cattle ambled over the crest, as small as specks of brown sugar and salt and pepper.

After a breather, we decided to push on to the castle. We picked our way carefully down the steep slope, Galen munching on clover and leading the way with Zoltan. The next hill would be the toughest. Heaving and dripping with sweat, we scrambled up the rocks, wondering how in the world the original inhabitants made a daily routine of this slope. After a tiring 20 minutes we emerged onto the grassy crown. I put my hand against the stone wall, dusted with age but still standing for all the world to see. What a view. I breathed in deeply, and then shouted down to the rest of the group to cheer them on. One, and then two, and then three. Gradually, all in the group pulled themselves up to the castle, panting and sweating, but beaming. Everything is not enough, Nothing is too much to bear.

While only half the group hiked that day to the castle, we carried the spirits of the group with us to the top: the spirit of camaraderie, the spirit of challenges met, and the spirit of making days worth remembering. And while words can convey the events, and pictures can paint the scene, each of our individual memories of that day are a souvenir that can never be given away. All you keep is the getting there.

We hiked home slowly, soaking in every turn of the village and moment with each other. Stopping for a bathroom break halfway, I looked up to see a word strung up in lights across the road: “Gonduzo.” I asked Unige what the word meant. She said that is was difficult to translate, but means loosely ”letting your worries go” and was a common word for celebrations. I liked that and repeated the word again. Gond?z?.

As we walked the final stretch towards the cabins, we linked together, arm-in-arm. Compelled by the day and the night, we let our voices ring into the air, “We are the champions....” That's exactly how we felt at that moment: champions, conquerers. What's more, we were excited to be sharing the night as friends and travelers. We were all smiling because, after a long hike, nothing could have been a better sight than to be greeted by our fellow travelers and the warm glow of a cafeteria where the accommodation staff had insisted on waiting for us to serve us up heaping servings of Romanian cabbage and chicken. 

Tags: 05, hungaromania, matt rolland
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 12, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Seventeen

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Anne Marie Norgren ('06)

Saturday, June 12th was an extremely busy day. It was physically exhausting, as we walked around the city of Targu Mures while the temperature was over 100 degrees and very humid. It was also mentally exhausting, as we went to three lectures and a tour and discussed some important and weighty issues in Romania. However, while exhausting, the day was satisfying, as it provided us with more perspectives and viewpoints on the history, culture, and social issues in Romania.

One of the recurring themes of this trip is the obvious tension between different ethnic groups in Romania, including Romanians, ethnic Hungarians, and Roma people. We have attended numerous lectures that discuss these issues, and the latest was a lecture on minority issues given by Maria Korek, former Project Manager for a Romanian organization dealing with inter-ethnic relations. In her lecture, Ms. Korek explained the tensions between Romanians and ethnic Hungarians living in Romania. Before the 1920 Trianon Treaty, much of what is now Romania belonged to Hungary. Therefore, after the treaty, much of Hungary became part of Romania, even though it was home to an extremely large population of Hungarians.

Still today, millions of Hungarians live within Transylvania in Romania. For the most part, they have fought to keep their language and culture alive. In fact, in Transylvania, an ethnic Hungarian child can go to a Hungarian language school or even live in an entirely Hungarian-language town. The reason for the tensions between Romanians and ethnic Hungarians come from the fact that Romania has attempted to get Hungarians to assimilate, while Hungarians have fought to live as Hungarians in the lands that their families have lived in for generations. Ethnic Hungarians living in Transylvania are stuck in between two identities: they are not Romanian, but they are not allowed to be entirely Hungarian either. Therefore, they are caught somewhere in between, and there are still many unresolved issues as a result of this century-long tension.

To give a more tangible example, I will provide a metaphor. Imagine that next year the US signs a treaty where (somehow) Arizona becomes part of Mexico. If Mexico acted as Romania did when this happened in 1920, Mexico would then force Arizonans to speak Spanish, teach their kids Mexican history, and follow Mexican norms. Then Arizonans would rise up, gain influence, and establish society of their own—an English-speaking community within Mexico. In response to this, people would ask Arizonans, “Why don't you just move to the US?” And Arizonans would reply, “We didn't move to Mexico. Mexico moved to us.” That is essentially what happened (and is happening) in Transylvania. Just imagine the tensions that causes.

Unlike the Hungarian minority, which has power and influence in Romanian society, the Roma minority, which is probably close to two million people, has little to no influence in the larger society. The Roma, or Gypsies, are marginalized by society and live in extreme poverty. The unemployment rate is 90% among the Roma, which illustrates how little this minority has been able to integrate into society. The strong prejudices against the Roma by Romanians and Hungarians alike further pushes them to the fringes of society, and their situation does not seem to be improving. Ms. Korek pointed out that a change in mentality of the majority is required before the Roma will ever be able to get out of their current dire situation. But only time will tell what form this “change” will take.

After the lecture on minority issues, we attended a lecture on social issues, given by an employee of the Alpha Transylvania Foundation, an NGO devoted to increasing life opportunities for disabled persons within Romania (unfortunately, I was not able to get the lecturer's name). The most striking part of this lecture was the discussion about civil society in Romania, which was a communist country where the nonprofit sector did not exist until after 1989.

Our speaker discussed how nonprofits are forming in order to “fill in the gaps” in social services that government and for-profit agencies cannot address. Yet these new nonprofits still have to fight to be heard by the Romanian government. For example, the Alpha Transylvania Foundation applied for a government grant to run their daycare center, and the government agreed to the grant and signed a contract to give them the funding. However, when it came down to it, the government did not come through, and the foundation was forced to close down the center for a week while lobbying for the funds that were promised to them by the state.

Therefore, as much as the third sector is gaining more weight in the previously-communist state of Romania, it still has a long way to go to be accepted, influential, and supported by the government and by the general public. However, this sector has had some major achievements, and unlike many of our lectures in Romania, this lecture provided an extreme sense of hope. The speaker was optimistic about the possibilities for her foundation and for the entire nonprofit sector in the future, and pointed out that the general public, including the media, is starting to understand and offer to help. She made clear that the nonprofit sector is built using the freedom that Romanians gained after the fall of communism in 1989. And she had hope for the future of the sector, claiming that NGOs are playing an increasingly larger role in Romanian society.

Now that I am reliving the day of June 12th, I feel even more lucky to be hearing multiple different viewpoints on the major issues in Romanian society. In one way, Romania is a very old society, with traditions and culture from the Roman Empire and earlier. Yet in another way, Romania is a very new society, which underwent major transitions in the 20th century that are still affecting everyday life. Who knows what the future will hold?

Tags: 06, anne marie norgren, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 11, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Sixteen

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Lauren Johnston ('09)

Today we ended our homestays in Homorodszentpeter, a small Unitarian Hungarian “willage” in Transylvania, Romania. Probably the only words to describe this little niche of the world are “freaking awesome.” To put it a little more eloquently, this tiny village is an idyllic paradise, where each inch of architecture and décor and cuisine is marked by flawless craftsmanship and every cow knows how to get home on its own. The people take pride in their traditions, history, and handiwork.

After a pleasant morning of homemade breakfast and strolls around the hills and the dairy, we sat down with Reverend Kinga to talk about the issues that this village faces. She began with the formidable assertion that, “At some point, we must decide what we want really out of life,” Packed in this simple sentence are the deepest questions of morality and values that challenge not only Kinga’s evolving community but our own lives as well; especially at this junction after our first year away from home. Considering that our lives are so privileged with freedoms and essentially sheltered experiences, one can only imagine the depth of tackling this challenge in the midst of such harsh cultural and moral clashes.

With Romania’s recent entry into the EU, traditional communities have in some areas been forced to adopt the values and practices of Europe. Over the past 80 years, the small ethnic strongholds have had to cope with regime changes from monarchy, to communism, to a fledgling democracy. The sheer rapidity and juxtaposition of such richly opposing governments is enough to overwhelm any society that has succeeded in remaining rooted to its practices and morals for hundreds of years. The rhythm of life in the traditional cultural strongholds like Homorodszentpeter has been interrupted as harshly as a stanza from a Bela Bartok composition. While modernization has brought communities together through technology and education, Rev. Kinga pointed out that the most notable changes are pessimistic sentiments towards integration and the loss of cultural and economic stability. Cultural phenomena in the form of television and unsavory vice have overturned the community life as well.

With the constant air of change, Reverend Kinga holds to the wish that her congregation will remain faithful and devoted to the simple joys of an honest life. She hopes that her children will choose to stay in the village and work as farmers. As Matt Rolland mused, for a woman so educated and worldly, this is a rather unique sentiment. I interpreted this dream as a small blessing of hope that the next generation will come to understand where true happiness lies, and pursue a life centered around a deeper peace with the world. As we said our goodbyes in the village, Kinga charged us to find a balance between tradition and progress, and to always have hope that we may find happiness.

Tags: 09, hungaromania, lauren johnston
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 10, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Fifteen

Each summer, the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Derek Huang ('09)

This morning, I had breakfast at a local pastry shop with Galen and Blake. The prices were so low, we ended up trying out four or five different pastries. Honestly, I don't know how so many Flinns in our class have stayed skinny. I guess we do a lot of walking, talking, volleyball, and soccer playing, so it probably all balances out in the end. One major lifestyle difference I've noticed here is that the people eat their food in public places, while walking, talking or playing with their children. I've seen gelato cones everywhere on the streets, but not a single gallon-sized box of ice cream on store shelves. I think it's a better way to treat food--not as a guilt-laden, private pleasure, but as a shared one that is soon walked off. A meal is more fulfilling when eaten slowly and with good company.

When we left Alba Iulia for Simisoara, I did not think that we would be crossing any borders, as both cities are in Romania. However, somewhere along the way, we passed into the region of Transylvania, which is mostly Hungarian. Being in an area where ethnicity is a much stronger identifier than nationality was truly a new experience for me. As a scientist-in-training, my first reaction to the new experience was to categorize it, to tag it with descriptions:

European
Romanian
Hungarian
Transylvanian

Which are the most important to the people here? Something I take for granted as an Asian-American is in fact the validity of that very label. I am both Asian and American, with neither canceling the other. This acceptance of not only diversity, but also of plural identity, is what my homestay in Budapest, Máté, said he admired the most about America. Maybe one day there will be people who proudly call themselves Hungarian-Romanian. Maybe this will never happen. It is a difficult question to answer.

After Simisoara, we drove to a small ethnically Hungarian village of about two hundred people, where we were welcomed with copious amounts of strong palinka and a kind of sugar-dusted, hole-less donut. A word about palinka: this Hungarian drink is a type of brandy made from a fruit like peach or cherry. The palinka I'd had up until today were usually very sweet and fruity. The traditional palinka we were offered at the village, however, was much, much stronger. Some of the Flinns slowly sipped the drink. Others decided to get it over with in one gulp. Whatever their approach, there was a basket of sugary donuts nearby to help soothe a palinka-shocked palate.

Then we learned some Hungarian folk dances! I enjoyed this part especially, because even though I loved going to different clubs around Budapest and dancing to modern music, there are aspects of folk dancing that are just more fun. The biggest difference is the feeling of inclusion in folk dancing. Everyone lined up in a circle and held each other's hands while dancing the same moves. By the end of it, we were all soaked in sweat. I had to change into my third shirt of the day.

The freshly cooked goulash and bread at dinner was delicious. The singing and dancing after dinner with the accordion player was fun. Usually I think of tradition as something that binds, guides and fortifies its followers, but here I was reminded that the tradition of hospitality was, at its core, simply the art of having a great time.

Tags: 09, derek huang, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 09, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Fourteen

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Sachi Patel ('09)

Jam sessions complete with dancing, bracelet-making lessons from Dawn, story time about Hungarian history, and intermittant naps--all of this happened just on the bus ride from the hotel to our next stop, Hunedora Castle. One of the things I have most enjoyed about this trip is the other Scholars, since their diversity of talents and intelligence ensure that there is never a dull moment, even on a three-hour bus ride! It's safe to say that by the time we arrived at the castle, it had already felt like an entire day had gone by.

Once we reached the castle, our first priority was lunch, since Flinn and food are essentially interchangeable! Lunch consisted of sandwiches, chips, chocolate, and tons of fruit which excited us all since simple fruit (especially grapes!) has been a scarce commodity during this trip. After lunch, we played a game of soccer that turned into a game of keep-away. Despite miserably losing, I still had fun (since the mere act of playing a game on a castle wall can make you feel like a winner).

The actual tour of Hunedora Castle then ensued. Often I tend to fall into the illusion that the past could never live up to the world that we have created in the 20th century. The castle tour completely dispelled this illusion. Seeing the stolid and creative architecture of the castle that had been built in 1440 made me realize how brilliant the people who made it must have been to have created something so massive without modern tools.

Though the building was made without modern tools I could already see the effects of modern civilization on the building. The gift store was full of Hannah Montana perephanelia and other items that had no real relationship to the actual castle. The extent to which the castle had been modernized made me sad, since I suddenly became aware of how fragile the past is. If the modern century is already leaking into historical monuments, what will be this castle's fate in another hundred years?

Another short bus ride and we reached the hotel we were staying at for the night--Hotel Translyvania--which was located in Alba Iulia. The tour of Alba Iulia was probably one of my favorite parts of the day. This tour was full of visiting old Roman sites that had guards in dramatic costumes who guarded everything, including the grass. Every time one of us absentmindedly stepped on the grass or gravel, a whistle was blown at our entire group! One of the guards let us take pictures with him. When Hugh asked the guard to make the peace sign with him in a picture the guard, looking confused, pulled out his sword instead and let Hugh hold it during the picture; the 'peace' picture turned into a 'war' picture in less than a second!

During the tour we also saw a short exposition that highlighted the effects of car pollution on ancient limestone statues. For one of the first times I saw the tangible effects of our civilization on more ancient civilizations. The intricate statues had become dull and wore-out to the extent that it was not even clear what they had been in the first place. Statues and other things made out of limestone that had stood for hundreds of years had been ruined in half a century by us.

While the effects of us on beautiful buildings frightened me, another thing about the city frightened me as well. Alba Iulia had quite a few stray dogs that wandered around the city, and, since dogs top my list of fears, I was forced to put on a brave face and refrain myself from yelping every time I saw another dog.

After the tour we were given free time to eat dinner. I ate dinner at an Italian restaurant with some other Flinns. At the restaurant our verbal skills were put to a test as the waitress knew little, if any, English. Despite this, we managed to get the food we desired. Our day ended, as most days do, with a short gelato trip! Due to how common gelato shops in Hungary and Romania have been, many of us have become ice-cream addicts in the past few weeks! After the gelato fix we headed back to the hotel where we hung out and talked for a couple of hours before sleep got the best of us. The day, full of eye-opening events, fun moments, and gelato, had finally ended.

Tags: 09, hungaromania, sachi patel
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 08, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Thirteen

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Laurel Gray ('09)

"The world was created in seven days.
We won our freedom in seven days.
They shot me on December seventeenth.
I am not sad.
I am happy."

With these words uttered by one man in a small chapel, we begin our journey through a museum of the Romanian Revolution. It begins in the courtyard, where a photograph displays the crowd of 150,000 people that stood in the square now dubbed "Victory Square" in December of 1989. The courtyard is open to multiple stories of balconies, where flowers and cactus ("special flowers for the special people who visit us)" grace the rusting iron pots hanging off the thin rail.

We wander up the stairs to the second story and enter a room with sheafs of newspaper clippings, papers, and magazines organized meticulously onto different shelves. The papers are organized by date and subject, the shelves upon which they rest are categorized by country. This holds all of the texts, materials, and reports of the Romanian Revolution during, before and after the seven days of December in 1989 when the Romanian people overthrew Nicolae Ceausescu.

We are next led into a room where we watch documentaries of the revolution, and then a history on the life of Ceausescu. Like many leaders wreathed in overwhelming power and prestige, Ceausescu was adamant that the people of Romania worship him with a fervor closely resembling the people of China's praise for Mao, or the way in which the people of North Korea today venerate Kim Jong Il. Ceausescu egotism spread so far as to try to alter his own history. Staff was hired to create a new childhood history for Nicolae, one full of heroism and love for Romania and the Romanian people. All of the facts were fabricated, and yet the people still had to learn this history by heart in school, learning to repeat lies. Ceausescu's hobbies (mainly hunting) were celebrated in propaganda videos, and his perpetually youthful face covered huge banners across every city. He and his wife had so many palaces across the country that they were not able to live or even visit each ostentatious building.

Yet still, the United States government was supporting this leader, because Ceausescu portrayed himself as an anti-Soviet communist, a platform which he was rooted to long after the communist era of the Soviet Union ended and the relations of the Soviet Union with the rest of the world were once again relaxed. It is at this time in the presentation of the Romanian Revolution that I become annoyed and angry. I am frustrated, for while I highly value the education I received in high school, I did not learn much of the history, politics, and social upheavals of Central Europe. I was completely unaware of the immense power Ceausescu held over an entire nation, and I did not know of the vast destruction he wrecked over the Romanian countryside, nor of the social upheavals of his reign.

Yet this museum and the information it houses is only a small fraction of the knowledge and discussions we have all received on this trip. It has ceased to be a novelty when I learn of a piece of history I never knew, as it is blatantly obvious that my education, and the education many other youth in the United States probably receive, is biased and incomplete. We learn what others think is important (or even worse, we learn the information that is present on the AP exam), but this is dangerously ignorant. Instead, we cannot consider ourselves "experts" in any particular topic until we study it from multiple perspectives. These perspectives cannot come strictly from a textbook or from a professor in the United States education system, but rather from people of different cultures, nations, and backgrounds. "History is bunk" is something Henry Ford once declared, and in my opinion, this is undoubtedly true until every single perspective of an event is taken into account, and even then the event of the past can be skewed.

So when we walk into a museum dedicated to the Romanian Revolution, and one man is bent on collecting documentation from literally every single country and every major news source from said country, it is clear that this person is determined to create a complete picture of the seven days that defined his life and many of those around him. He does this so that the Revolution is never forgotten, and so that people around the world can be educated about seven days that won a country its freedom.

Again, this is a noble goal, and one to be respected. Yet I am not of this man's generation; I and the rest of the youth are the "new" generation. So when this man declares that the neo-communist party "protects killers. They are free. It is a shame" I am hesitant to give him my full attention and respect for his materials. Yes, I never lived through a communist era and I do not know of the full impact of Ceausescu because I never experienced it. However the attitude of revenge against the persons formerly in power seems to me inherently wrong as the cycle of mistrust and anger will simply begin again.

As one of my fellow classmates pointed out later, this is the exact attitude that defines the current youth in Romania. No one under the age of 20 has a full perspective of life under Ceausescu, and so it is possible for them (and us) to view Ceausescu's reign as "history," a thing of the past. But his legacy still remains throughout Romania. It is present in the attitudes of the people, it is obvious in the pervasive distrust of the government, and it is visible in the huge cement monstrosities that form the old housing projects and apartments. So while the current youth may not know of Ceausescu through experience, everyone is still affected by his past reign. The museum of the Romanian Revolution is another piece in this vast puzzle of events and opinions that has shaped and defined the Romanian people for decades.

Our time at the museum ends with a request to help find materials about the Romanian Revolution from sources in the United States. We gather for a group picture in the courtyard, sign all of our names in a guest book (proof for the museum's donors that people do indeed visit this place), and then file out the door onto the streets. After the past couple of hours, our journey through modern day Timisoara seems unusually bright.

Tags: 09, hungaromania, laurel gray
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 07, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Twelve

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Blake Thomson ('09)

The day began when I rolled over, grunted at the bright sunlight, and opened my eyes. I was more than slightly surprised to find myself in a genuine Mongolian Yurt next to a couple of groggy Hungarians. Soon after, I was listening to a lecture about competition in the international context given by a professor who had a stint at Stanford for her research. A few hours later I was watching two separate men with Ph.D.'s demonstrate how to manipulate lasers to perform different tasks at the microscopic level. Then I mailed a few postcards and ate gelato amidst a sea of people, hoping to escape the mercilessly hot sun's rays (by Hungarian standards, of course). Needless to say, it's been a good day. But let me explain...

Yesterday we spent the day at a horse ranch in the city of Szeged, where we currently are staying. While there, we had the opportunity to ride horses and practice archery (not at the same time, unfortunately) with a small group of Hungarian students. At night we slept in yurts -- somewhat portable tents used by nomads when traveling, of which two styles were offered: Kazakstakstani (that doesn't sound correct...) or Mongolian, and I slept in the latter.

Depending on how well-versed you are on the topic of yurts (you never know with Flinn kids...), you may or may not know that yurts are not necessarily famous for keeping sunlight out. This fact facilitated our waking up on time for an early breakfast, however bitterly. After a day of riding horses, shooting arrows, and "collecting" firewood (read: walking into the forest and helplessly dangling from tree branches until they broke off), I would describe our smell collectively as "not up to the standards of civilized society." I'll leave it at that.

Anyways, we were all dying for showers and were told we would have about 45 minutes to shower when we got back to our hotel. There were technically showers at the horse ranch but... well, let's just say that we were justified in electing not to use them. So we rushed through our breakfast of meat, bread and yogurt in order to get on the bus as quickly as possible to ensure sufficient time for showering. Galen remarked that this might be our first breakfast of this trip with no salami or unidentifiable sausages present. I replied that this was almost true, with the caveat that vegetarians still needed to be wary of the cheese; it was "bacon flavored," with bits of meat in it. Close enough.

We arrived back at the hotel about a half hour later and parted ways with the Hungarian students, rushing inside to get dibs on the shower. After enjoying a quick shower, we set off to get to our first lecture. The Tisza River separates the area where our hotel lies and the main downtown district of Szeged, so it is about a half hour walk, and a fairly scenic one at that.

Our first speaker of the day, Márta Fülöp, discussed competition in the academic context from an international perspective. She had done research in Hungary, the United States, Japan, and Canada, among others. The results of her work were fascinating. As it turns out, Americans generally view competition in a more positive light than Hungarians do. We also care a heck of a lot more about competitive sports than they do (not everyone can have the Suns, Diamondbacks, Coyotes, and Cardinals to represent their state...). Even more interesting was the fact that Hungarians tend to see competition as a somewhat dangerous reality, one that often leads to immorality and resentment.

The presented research showed that Hungarians emphasize beating out others when competing, rather than improving themselves, while the Japanese focus on self-improvement in competition. Hungarians also associated winning with negative feelings as well; namely, fear (fear) of loser's envy. We all had a hunch that the somewhat recent governance by socialism had something to do with it. Going from a socialist society in which employment is near 100% and no one really needs to compete for anything directly to a free-market economy in which getting the edge on others makes all the difference certainly isn't an overnight process. And it isn't without ramifications.

One final note about competition, a bit of a fun piece of trivia: Hungarians use the English word for "loser," but have their own word for "winner." Ideas as to the implications of not having a word for being a loser until us Americans "enlightened" them? You're welcome, Hungary. With that and the Lady Gaga music they play everywhere, I'd say they really owe us one.

Anyway, after the talk we went out to lunch at the nearby Brnoi étterem (the Hungarian word for restaurant). Can anyone guess what we had for lunch? At the time of my writing this, only 2 blog entries have been posted, and neither of them have mentioned this fact, so I don't feel like I am beating the subject to death: we had fried chicken with french fries and rice. Fried chicken and some form of potato seems to be either the quintessential Hungarian treat or the only safe bet with a group of 17 American teenagers. Either way, the gelato:fried chicken ratio in our diet seems to be getting exponentially larger by the day. I'm not complaining.

After lunch we had our second round of talks, this time at Szeged's Biological Research Institute, with a lecture focusing on biophysics. It was all a little over my head, but the basic premise was that lasers can be used to create very small things with great accuracy. I think. To be honest, as far as I was concerned, about 95% of what they showed us in their laboratory demonstrations was magic.

One researcher wrote the word "hello" on an infinitely small scale on a glass slide. Another researcher fashioned a microscopic 3D object with a different laser. We also were shown a fluorescent light that turned on and off seemingly by magic when it passed into a machine which emitted some kind of gas. I felt like one of the awe-inspired villagers at the beginning of Gabriel Garcia Marquez's 100 Years of Solitude, when the procession of foreigners with seemingly magical inventions (like ice) comes through town. I couldn't understand what they were doing, but I thoroughly enjoyed it.

Luckily, Derek happens to be interested in lasers and knows a lot about them (Flinn kids...) so there was no shortage of comprehensible questions, allowing the rest of us to avoid being put on the spot. All in all, a pretty solid set of lectures. And then free time ensued.

Free time began with a beeline to our (by "our" I literally mean all of us) favorite gelato spot for a scoop. Or three, depending on who you ask. Among the most popular flavors are the Ferrero Rocher, the vanilla, the karmell, and the very mysterious mint named "after eight." I think I can speak for all of us when I say that I'm not used to my mint gelato having menthol in it; we all reveled in the oddity, and I'd call that an excellent bonding opportunity if I ever saw one.

I then parted ways with the group, namely Michael by this point, and headed to the 24/7 internet cafe. Upon entering I found that I was not alone, as I was greeted by Ben, Sachi and Allison, and Galen soon stepped in as well. Although the Hungarian keyboards have the "z" and "y" keys switched, as well as hidden apostrophe and exclamation point keys, I nonetheless started my blog entry with a sense of adventure. After typing "verz" and "reallz," along with a "civiliyed," I got Ben to tell me how to change the keyboard to American-style so I could stop abusing the backspace key. I wimped out.

After catching up on email I headed back out to the gelato spot, called A Capella, which by now is our main meeting point. After milling around and eating yet another scoop of gelato, we decided to go out to dinner at a fish restaurant mentioned in our Lonely Planet guide. Michael, Emma, Nesima, Derek, Catherine and I all tried the fish, and we thoroughly enjoyed it. Tisza River is filled with good eats.

We then headed out to meet up with other Flinns and Hungarian students at a nightclub, but seeing as it was about 11:30 P.M. and we have to be up at 7 tomorrow, we decided to head back instead. I gotta say, I don't regret that decision.

The opportunity to sleep in a bed in a hotel becomes pretty attractive after waking up to a roof made of felt and walls made of sticks (you read up yurts, didn't you?). So I suppose it'd be pretty responsible of me to go to bed early tonight and get a good night's rest. But I think I hear my fellow Flinns down the hall, and the laughter is so inviting, and it's not really so very late, and everyone is heading in different directions in the next few days and months and years, and after all, we're only here once... right?

Tags: 09, blake thomson, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 06, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Eleven

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Katherine Cai ('09)

Today was our first official day in Szeged, and the travel toward the Eastern border of Hungary definitely brought a nice (and warmer) change in weather. We met a guide for a sightseeing tour of Szeged. It is a beautiful small town with a rich history. Destroyed by a periodic flooding problem, the city at one point had 17,000 people left homeless. However, the people of Szeged take a lot of pride in their ability to rebuild most of the city in only four years.

We walked around the quaint walkways to look at the beautiful new architecture of city hall, the library, the church, and the main squares. We also had the opportunity to see some of the original houses that had survived the flood, identifiable only by the very low windows, which had originally been a part of the second floor of the house. After the beautiful tour of the sunny city, everyone ran to the gelato shop on Karasz Street. We all enjoyed a little break, and the most popular gelato flavor was by far the Ferrero Rocher.

Afterward, we took a bus ride to the Opusztaszer historical memorial park. We learned how to make paper and we saw the progression of life in Hungary over the years. We looked at some traditional Asian tents from Kazakhstan and Mongolia - a sneak peek into our living conditions for the night! We stopped for a small sandwich and fruit picnic before visiting the Feszty panorama. This painting is 15 meters high and 120 meters long, and depicts the historical legend of the Hungarian tribes arriving in the Carpathian Basin from the East. The size of the panorama itself left everyone in awe and the grandeur was only exemplified further by the landscape around the painting that highlighted the details of the multiple contributing artists and made the painting seem three-dimensional.

We met up with our contact from Szeged, Panka, and some other Hungarian students from the area. We all drove to the Jurtatabor Horse Ranch, where we were going camping in the traditional Asian tents that night. We all had the opportunity to ride horses and do archery. Michael (Young) and Kata even joined us for the activities! We even found out that we have some superb archers among our group!

We headed back for dinner, and after the Hungarian students surprised us with a juggling act involving seven balls and sock poi. We all tried out juggling and sock poi but we no no match for those guys. We also got a pretty intense soccer game going until it got dark, and then the Hungarian students surprised us again by putting on a fire show using the sock poi! Matt pulled out his violin, and we all enjoyed music and some singing. Some people headed out to take a walk in the dark of the night and explore the ranch and others did some stargazing. We ended the evening by singing a bunch of Disney songs as the bonfire died down and then we retired from the cold of the nights and the pestering mosquitoes to our tents.

Today was another day of learning, but I think it is really significant because it was a day full of those few lifetime experiences and opportunities. Visiting the Keszthely Castle and playing hide and seek in the dark was something that I knew I would never be able to do again. But just today I was able to do archery and experience raw nature with the old-style tents and our "outhouse," which was really just a glorified hole in the ground.

This trip has undeniably already taught us so much about the history, language, culture, and status of Hungary, but it has also fostered those once-in-a-lifetime learning opportunities that just give you the goosebumps. Tonight I saw my first shooting star as I lay out in the grass under the starry clear sky of Hungary with some of my closest friends, and I believe that aspect of the trip really speaks for itself.

Tags: 09, hungaromania, katherine cai
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 05, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Ten

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Ben Sanchez ('09)

Boldog születésnapot! As a child, I hated having a summer birthday since it meant I never could celebrate with my peers at school. The advantage, though, was having the privilege of celebrating my nineteenth birthday in Hungary. (The opening is Hungarian for Happy Birthday, if you hadn't already guessed).

The day began as most seem to begin: an extension of the night before. I had returned with part of the group to a place called Szimpla in the central part of Budapest. Szimpla is essentially a huge courtyard with has been converted into a social gathering. I really enjoyed Szimpla because it reminded me of a place that used to exist in Phoenix called The Monastery.

In fact, I have repeatedly been surprised at how many times I've been reminded of home in a place halfway around the world. I'm not saying I miss home, but there just seem to be a lot of things that people like and enjoy all around the world regardless of place and culture. Anyways, after spending a while at Szimpla, I continued with about half the group to a dance club on the banks of the Danube to continue the celebration. When the sun started to peek over the horizon we decided it was time we return to the hotel to get a couple hours of sleep before the next days activities.

Most days two hours of sleep leads to a rough morning. Luckily, we visited the Széchenyi Medicinal Thermal baths today. The Széchenyi baths were in the city park just north of our hotel and we met as a group at the entrance at nine. We first had a presentation from Ádám Ruszinkó, who worked with the Hungarian Office of Tourism and specialized in thermal-bath tourism. He described the prevalence of baths across the country and the culture associated with them. I was surprised at how integrated into their culture thermal baths are. There is a widespread belief in Hungary that thermal bathing is a major contributor to overall health and as such, many of the bath's services can be charged to an insurance company or prescribed by a medical doctor.

After the discussion on baths, we received a tour of the building and saw three large pools as well as 35 different thermal baths that had varying temperatures and mineral contents. We quickly moved to the baths when our tour ended. We tried pretty much all of the saunas and mineral baths as well as all of the pools in our two hours at the baths. It was extremely relaxing after a very late night. The baths were quite busy with mostly Hungarians, which reinforced what Mr. Ruszinkó had told us about how culturally important the baths were.

We began our journey to the last town we would visit in Hungary before Romania after a great morning. While the baths were relaxing, I was still really tired and slept the entire trip from Budapest to Szeged. We arrived in Szeged just before 6 pm and met our guide Panka. She gave us an informal tour of the city as we walked to the restaurant for our group dinner. Szeged, like Budapest, is a city on a river (but it sits on the Tisza rather the Danube). The city has a history of being flooded by a river and we could tell why: as we crossed the bridge over the river we saw that the rain from the last few days had caused the river to flood over a street that ran next to the river. The city has built defenses, so no actual buildings are damaged, but it was still interesting to see just the top few inches of a traffic sign.

We had dinner near the main pedestrian area of the city and the chaperones kindly surprised me with a cake at the end of dinner. While I was surprised by the cake, I was even more surprised that the entire group had at some point in the day learned how to sing Happy Birthday in Hungarian. I barely have time to sleep, but they have time to learn a song in Hungarian.

All in all, it was a great birthday. I didn't spend it with my family or at home, but I enjoyed every minute of and have enjoyed the opportunity to spend it with my Scholars class, whom I seem to get closer with every day.

Tags: 09, ben sanchez, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 04, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Nine

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Jennifer Chen ('09)

This has been a summer of many firsts. This was my first trip to Europe, my first time traveling with so many students my age, my first experience in homestay, my first time consuming gelato on a bi-hourly basis, and my first time seriously contemplating the minority issues surrounding other countries.

Today was reflection day on the bus ride back from Balaton to Budapest. As a class we were asked for our opinions regarding the latest visit to the Roma village. For an ethnic group that is shrouded in suspicion by the locals, they were extremely welcoming of our class. I found it amazing how quickly they accepted our hodgepodge group of students into their family. As the discussion continued, we hit a roadblock when trying to identify or characterize both the Roma and Hungarian people. While it is clear that the two ethnic groups are segregated, the solution is not as apparent. Who was right? Who was wrong? Where does the root of the problem lie, and what can we as people do to improve the situation?

These were all very heavy issues that seemed much too complex to fully comprehend, at least for me. I mean, if there has not been a solution in all these years, who are we to prescribe a course of action within our first week in Hungary? Nevertheless, Ravi summed it up quite simply noting that people must recognize each other as people, not as a member of one political party, cultural background, or religious affiliation. Rather than point out the differences, people must find the common ground they walk upon in order to take a step towards a better future, and each person is essentially linked by this sense of humanity. It was a beautiful thought, really.

After the bus reflections, we arrived at the Bartok house for a tour, lecture, and concert. The tour encompassed all aspects of Bartok's life and exhibited his most arbitrary possessions (i.e. his cigarette stub and insect collection). The lecturer was wonderfully energetic as he danced and sang throughout his presentation. Following his presentation was a concert comprised of Bartok's pieces. The contemporary music was quite an experience where the piano was more rhythmic and percussive than traditional piano pieces. While the music was interesting, it was a little too modern for my tastes.

Later that night we went out as a class to celebrate Ben's 19th birthday. (I'll save that story for him to tell, though.) Then again, I don't think that Ben's the only one who's grown. I think that we've all grown a lot as a class through out this trip.

Tags: 09, hungaromania, jennifer chen
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 03, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Eight

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Galen Lamphere-Englund ('09)

A welcome sight greets our eyes this morning: the clouds have lifted, and the sun has decided to peek out around the edges of the grey sky. We peer, bleary with shortened sleep, and find that we are smiling.

Last night was spent in the Keszthely Castle, otherwise called the Festetics Palace. It is a massive building filled with beauty and lore, with a 100,000-volume library of rare works amassed by its former occupants. At the invitation of our hosts, we gained the use of the third-floor "smoking lounge" at night. Unlike the rest of the hardwood-paneled, ornate palace, the smoking room had been renovated in a bizarrely retro '70s style. Several of us spent the night playing cards and chasing one another around the guest wing in the former residence of Hungarian Counts. Perhaps their spirits appreciated our young company.

Today we leave the fantastic Palace for a journey through the Balaton national park. Winding roads and a few wrong turns, resulting in strange detours through quaint residences with sprawling gardens, eventually lead us into the green hills above the lake. Our white tour bus stops outside an preserved historic farm, nestled alongside homesteads and a steepled church.

Past the split rail fence and whitewashed houses, we are greeted by several rangers who proceed to lead us around past the "Hungarian Grey Cattle," which look identical to American longhorns, and deadly-adorable baby farm animals. Later, after sojourning on to several other villages, we are again led through meadows to beautiful rolling hills littered with "healing stones" and birdbath-sized reflecting pools.

The small white homes sprinkled amongst the hills opposite us and the new growth forest remind us that everything here has felt humanity's touch for many years. Reminders that civilization is thousands of years old in Hungary are everywhere, even in the seeming rural country. Yet, in spite of the human aspect, the sweeping vistas of Lake Balaton from the top of an ancient volcanic basalt hill seem to put all of our collectively small existences back into perspective.

After bidding farewell to the National Park, we found ourselves in a lakeside research arm of Hungary's University system. Our lecturer informed us about the limnological research which they have conducted in the extremely shallow, 3 meters at most, Lake Balaton over the past century.

After leaving the rather well-decorated research building, we found some quiet solitude on the lakeshore among the beautifully landscaped grounds. Soon after, we ventured up the hill to Tihany, perched on a picture perfect hill between lakes, crested by a grandiose Abbey. Wandering around the woods surrounding the town stirred up memories of similar places in the United States, places with the same plants and flowers, but lacking the thatched roofs and whitewashed walls of the villas in Tinany. Our lodging for the evening was in just such a house: two stories, with beautifully thatched roofs and curved windows overlooking a green courtyard.

Yet, as I lay down to sleep, I find that my thoughts are still dwelling on the Roma village visit several days ago. The captivating beauty of the people, richly happy despite their material poverty; the stunning kindness with which they greeted us; the smiles on each Roma child who ran alongside our inner youth. The pride of the houses, each one spotless and with dazzling flowers, and the flavorful feast prepared for our visit. The nationalist agenda pursued against these amazing people seems so foolish, yet it is a pattern used time and time against, across borders and time. The same stereotypes and prejudices have been used in the US against the Irish, the Chinese, and, today, the Hispanic immigrants. Why such othering persists is confounding.

But of equal universal appeal was the Roma boys' use of Capoiera. In the green grass, the energetic kids demonstrated perfect martial arts moves like Jengas, Banderas, and Ouefechadas. The Brazillian dance martial art, once used by repressed slaves, has found another home: in the movements of another repressed people, kindred spirits only separated by time and space. Reminders of universal humanity are everywhere.

 

Tags: 09, galen lamphere-englund, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 02, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Seven

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Emma Kleiner ('09)

We all woke up to the now typical rainy day in Pecs, Hungary. Around 8 AM, there was a fleeting hopeful moment of sunshine, but that dream was quickly and effectively squashed by more rain. Our day centered around transporting ourselves from Pecs to Lake Balaton, but first we spent the morning and early afternoon in Pecs.

Breakfast was more lively than usual, as Nesima brought down her Mad Gab game, and we all gathered around a table to play. It must have been quite amusing for other foreign visitors to see a whole group of American teenagers trying to figure out silly phrases in English.

Then, after moving all our luggage downstairs, we proceeded to the main square in Pecs. Our mission there was to split into teams and create a scavenger hunt which we would then switch with another group.

Despite the chilly conditions, it was great to walk around Pecs one last time. My group even made it to a huge underground shopping mall, which was a cool experience!

After the scavenger hunt, we met at a Croatian restaurant, Afium. Most of us had eaten there previously, so it was familiar territory.

Following lunch, we departed on our bus to Lake Balaton. The most popular bus activity by far was sleeping, but some more adventurous Flinns entertained themselves by taking picures or even chatting with each other. The lush plants, rolling hills, and tall trees along the road made it a gorgeous drive. We arrived at Lake Balaton around 5 PM and had no trouble settling in at our beautiful hotel that also happened to be a castle.

After quickly depositing our suitcases, we were whisked off to dinner complete with a regional dessert specialty, which, due to the language barrier, we still do not know the name of. Our walk back to the castle was replete with general merrymaking and jokes, just like all Flinn together time.

Upon our arrival back at the castle we were given a tour by very nice and entertaining guides dressed in 18th century period clothing. The tour was fantastic, as it gave us the opportunity to learn more about the time period and the way in which the castle has been preserved. We saw the women's waiting room (vanity themed with a lot of mirrors) and the men's waiting room (hunting themed with a horse motif), but my favorite room by far was the library. Its dramatic high ceilings and ornamental woodwork proved to be the perfect houe for two floors of books. At the end of the tour we saw a special performance--a traditional European instrument, the hurdygurdy, was played for us. Then, we were all treated to a mini concert by Matt on the fiddle and Derek on the piano.

The night proved to be young, as many Flinns ventured into the chilly town after the tour, while others stayed and explored the castle.

Overall it was a terrific day with an especially fun evening. Hope everyone is doing well back in the U.S. and that you're enjoying our blog!

Tags: 09, emma kleiner, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Jun 01, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Six

 

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Ravi Ram ('09)

It was a Wednesday morning and had rained all of Tuesday (remember the Flinn application?) I sat outside my room thinking about the events of the previous day, trying yet again to understand how all of us could have done so much in so short a period of time. After an early morning run in the rain on Monday morning and clambering into bed late that night, the chances of a repeat performance on Tuesday morning stood at an encouraging 0%.

The rain and bleary skies, however, remained to greet me yet again on Tuesday, June 1st. Breakfast was the usual – eggs, bread, cheese, fruit, juice, hot chocolate – along with some philosophical banter between Derek and Galen and a discussion of Hugh and Katherine’s personality test results. Not even the brightest personality in our group was thrilled at the prospect of another cold, rainy day, but the morning gloom would soon be dispelled even if the clouds were not.

Agenda Item #1: The Gandhi School, a high school specially for ethnic Roma children of Hungary. We had to create a presentation of sorts for the boys and girls at the school, and as is so typical for the Flinn Class of 2009, we decided to do something with music and dance. The result: a brief history of Arizona’s universities and higher education system followed by a rendition of UA’s Bear Down fight song. Just like at the Roma village, shouts of “nice!” and “yes!” in broken English greeted us. Even better, we taught the students the song and then sang it again with all of them.

Better still, our planned performance inspired an impromptu session including a team break dance by Derek and a Roma high-schooler named Sándor, a guitar-accompanied song performed by two guys and two girls from the school, and finally a Flinn Class of ’09 version of Down by Jay Sean, led by Hugh on guitar, and Katherine, Nesima, and me singing. Music apart, the disadvantaged gypsy children had once again been the source of joy and laughter just like at the Roma village, and the bright, intelligent faces of the high schoolers provided hope that some day these people would be able to overcome their plight.

Later in the day, we had the opportunity to visit a number of museums in Pécs, all with years of culture from the Turks, Habsburgs, and all the other people and civilizations that have called Hungary home. The quality and diversity of artifacts and architecture in each exhibit was striking purely for beauty, but to me it emphasized something more, too, that tied together all of our experiences thus far.

To me, it was a symbol, a message, an idea that despite our differences – our ethnicities, families, economic status, education, etc. – we are all human beings, all bright, passionate people living on the same Earth. We often discuss the world’s problems as if we are all so far apart, as if unity and agreement are foreign concepts that rarely, if ever, are achieved. Some argue that the Roma people should be integrated into Hungarian schools and companies to help them rise as a people, while others argue for the necessity of a separately education Roma elite first. We debate alternatively that the Roma are oppressed and in need of help, or that we are forcing our Western values upon them.

If anything, interaction with the Roma people has taught me that we all share common goals, we all believe in family values, in community, in liberty, in achievement, whether we live in the poorest slum or the most beautiful mansion. As Michael said after visiting the Roma village, everyone speaks the language of fun. I know when I was 5 or 6, I would’ve run yelling and screaming to play catch and piggyback races too. The faces of the Roma kids are the smiling intelligent faces we all share as children, the hope of a peaceful world we all share as human beings.

At night I sat engaged in one of my favorite activities: a good, old-fashioned heart-to-heart conversation with Lauren. Finally, I had a chance to reflect with someone about the myriad of experiences we had all already had since leaving Arizona for central Europe. I realized that if this trip has taught me anything, it is that the awareness of this unity, these values, these common goals must come first if we are to ever truly solve the problems of the world. In my opinion, it is this understanding that will shape the future. But on a lighter note – this trip is the best thing ever.

 

Tags: 09, hungaromania, ravi ram
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
May 31, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Five

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Nesima Aberra ('09)

Today was a great immersion for the group into the city of Pecs--a rainy immersion, I should say. It's been raining hard through out the day and we have had to grab our jackets, rain boots, and umbrellas as we traipse around the city from place to place in our busy schedule.

In the morning, we went to the American Corner, which is a center that highlights American culture and values around the world. We learned about the different programs the Corner puts on in Pecs and other Hungarian cities to teach about American culture, like Native American Week, Thanksgiving Quilt workshops, and African American Week. It was fascinating to see how American culture is perceived and celebrated through the lens of Europeans, and Hungarians specifically.

Then, we learned about Pecs's activities in preparation for its title as European Cultural Capital of 2010, a title it shares with Istanbul and Essen. Pecs has developed several projects in its bid to highlight the culture and innovation of the so-called "borderless" city, like the Pecs Conference and Concert Center, the South Transdanubian Regional Library and Knowledge Center, and the Zsolnay Cultural Center.

Afterwards, we listened to a lecture about Hungarian politics, which is very interesting, considering the current issues the country is going through, dealing with the effects of its recent elections and the rise of the extreme-right party. The political culture in Hungary is full of distrust and suspicion, no doubt from the socialist and communist regimes the country has experienced. There is a lot of corruption and still marginalization of minorities that the government has to deal with. The professor who gave the talk had some optimism for the future but also some skepticism.

For lunch we headed over to a very nice restaurant called Traffik, followed by a couple hours of free time. It was still pouring rain but we all managed to find something to occupy our time in the eventful city. I walked through some shops for souvenirs and visited the two surviving mosques, symbols of the old Turkish occupation, although one of them has been now turned into a Catholic church, interestingly.

The group returned to the American Corner to watch Sunshine, a Hungarian film made by a famous Hungarian director. The movie was an epic drama chronicling the lives of a Hungarian Jewish family through the Habzburg, fascist, and communist eras. It brought up many themes of redemption, identity, assimilation versus integration, and political oppression.

Overall, we had a very educational and eye-opening day in Pecs and I feel like I am getting a better understanding and appreciation of the culture and history.

Tags: 09, hungaromania, nesima aberra
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
May 30, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Four

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Michael Weingartner ('09)

This morning began at 12:01 when I turned to Blake and said “Hey, Blake, its 12:01.” He nodded back to me, but amongst the sound of Katy Perry and Sean Kingston, I wasn’t completely sure that he had heard me. The place is Morrison’s 2, a Budapest dance club. I’m in a circle with Blake and about seven Hungarian students studying English. It’s very crowded and I don’t know where the other Flinns are.

 

I think to myself, this is going to be a good day.

Flashback to about five hours ago, which isn’t technically my day to blog about, but It’s kind of important, so, whatever. At 7 pm we Flinns met up with our Hungarian host students, who would be in charge of us for the next fourteen hours. We had met these people only once before and only very briefly before we were matched up. My host’s name is Alexandra Kálmán, but we call her Szandra, and she tells me that she and the other hosts have something planned for us already, and so they take us out for the night, first to a café, next to their university library, known as Könyvtár (Hungarian for “Library.” Go figure.), and then on to Morrison’s.

All in all, somewhere in this massive club built into a three-floor building out of the nineteenth century, there are fifteen Flinn Scholars and seventeen Hungarians studying English, which I begin to realize must be at least a little easier in a world where their nightclubs play American hits all night long. I’m dancing with Szandra and Blake is dancing with Eva while his host, Istvan, dances with another of his friends. After losing some of the other Flinns--trying to find a way to watch the Sun’s Game at three in the morning--and singing Backstreet Boys at the karaoke bar with four Hungarian strangers, Blake and I decide to call it a night at about three in the morning. I return to Szandra’s dormitory and I fall asleep by about four in the morning.

It’s six in the morning, and I need to wake up because today is another big day. I get up, spend twenty minutes trying not to scald myself in the dormitory shower (Hungarian showers--don’t get me started), spend ten minutes trying to translate to Szandra in Hungarian why Scyther is my favorite Pokemon, and then spend another forty minutes getting from the dorms back to the Radio Inn where Blake and I try to piece together our own stories while sharing tales of the previous night with the rest of the Scholars. It is nine in the morning by the time we all arrive and say goodbye to our hosts. I tell Szandra, my host, that we will be back in Budapest three more days in the near future and that we should get together. She emphatically agrees, and we say our goodbyes. Szandra and Istvan are the last hosts to leave the hotel.

Ten in the morning and the bus is packed up and we are on our way to a little place called Alsószentmárton. It’s a tiny village, about 1300 people, and every single person there besides the priest is a Gypsy. Now, I use the term Gypsy here because of what exactly we as a class have come to learn about this word. The Gypsy people are the single largest minority group in Hungary, comprising somewhere between 6 and 8 percent of the entire population. Many Hungarians refer to these people as criminals, drunks, stupid, lazy, dirty, and all sorts of other terrible things. The Gypsy people hold only three seats in the Hungarian parliament of nearly 400 representatives and are significantly behind their Hungarian neighbors in education, standards of living, employment, and even in their access to the Hungarian universal-health-care system. We are told that it is more polite, more politically correct, to refer to these people as the Roma, and as we tentatively spoke of them on our way to encounter them for the first time, this is what we called them ,because we did not want to offend a group that had already been through so much. I know that this is how I felt. And then we met them.

We are greeted before we even park the bus by children who burst out of their front doors and come running from all over the village to see the Americans. They call out to us as we walk from the bus to the community center, no bigger than a convenience store, in every English word they know.

“Good Morning!”

“Good Night!”

“My name is Alex!”

“Purple!”

We wave to them as we step into the community hall, where some of the women of the village stand, having been cooking since three in the morning (which I personally found ironic, but didn’t mention). We are treated to a remarkable feast, by far the best that I have had yet in Hungary. Goulash, chicken paprikash, peppers and salads and the most wonderful bread--and did I mention the bread? As we eat and eat and eat, we are being spoken to by Laszlo, one of the men of the village who tells us about his story and the story of his family and his people.

Laszlo grew up in this village and went to the Ghandi school, which we will be visiting in a few days. He attended university, one of the first ever to do so in this village, and received a degree in sociology. After this, he left to work for Princess Cruise lines as a waiter to make money for his family (19 percent of Roma are unemployed in Hungary) as well as to make his dream of seeing the world come true. He introduces himself and his community as being Gypsy, and he is proud of this. Later, I will ask him about how he plans to make changes in the village (He is running for office in a month) and then why he chooses to call himself a Gypsy instead of a Roma. He tells me that we cannot change who we are by changing our name. We must instead change the world so that the name Gypsy can become something to be proud of.

As surprising as this might sound, this is not what inspired me most in Alsószentmárton.

We step outside, and where before there were ten children there are now twenty, thirty, more than I can count, and more are coming. We have brought stickers, balloons, jump ropes, tennis balls, frisbees and Slinkies (which, in case you were wondering, everybody does love), and these we cannot give out fast enough to meet the children’s enthusiasm. We play tag. We make balloon animals. We play catch. After a while, Ravi begins to lose his language skills and devolves into a form of communication consisting of shouts and wails, which the kids seem to understand perfectly well. Derek teaches the kids how to dance and when he is finished, they end up teaching him how to dance. A boy named Alex runs towards me and jumps up onto my back and points forward, asking me to run. I oblige him until I am too tired and let him down. He runs to Blake and does the same thing a moment later.

All around the town we walk and play and run and jump and by the end of it, we are doing acrobatics in the grassy field outside the community hall and trying our best to catch our breaths, we are laughing so hard. And then the news comes: We have to be going. The kids don’t understand any English but when Michael tells us to start getting ready to leave, they are already upset. Laszlo and his wife say goodbye to us and present us with bread and drink (Tradition dictates that guests should never be let go without sustenance for the journey.) and bid us farewell. Adam decides to give one of the kids his ASU hat, saying later that it is the best seven dollars he has ever spent.

We take our last pictures, say our last goodbyes, and head onto the bus. As we go, Alex stops me to say goodbye. We pound our fists together like Hugh taught the kids to do, and he says to me “Thank You” as I get onto the bus and we drive away to Pecs.

In Hungary, May 30th is Children’s Day, and I still don’t know whether or not we made these kids’ day, or if they made ours. Either way, by the end of it all, I can say that I’ve never felt more like a kid.

Tags: 09, hungaromania, michael weingartner
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
May 29, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Three

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Dawn Cole ('09)

This morning began as the previous few had, with breakfast at the Radio Inn. It promised to be just a little more interesting, however, since it was a “challenge” day, meaning we would have to find our own way around the city. Although everyone claimed to know the way, we soon began to question whether we were going the right direction. We turned our heads in circles, occasionally glancing at the maps, but accomplishing little more than looking like confused chickens.

A man passing by on the street noticed this tourist SOS and asked us what we were looking for. So taken by surprise, and admittedly loopy from a lack of sleep, not a single one of us managed to utter an answer. “Do you speak English?”  he asked, a question we seem to be getting a lot lately. We quickly fumbled with our maps and schedules to produce the name of the street, and he kindly sent us in the right direction.

We began the day with a discussion on the current relations between Roma and Hungarian people.  The speaker, Ferenc Zsigó, first introduced us to the “Roma problem,” using free association to bring awareness to us about our own stereotypes and ignorance on the issue.

Even the simple term “jipped” reveals a lot about how we perceive the gypsy culture to be defined by poverty and begging.  The cigány, the Hungarian term for the Roma, which literally translates to “the outsiders,” are treated as just that, second class citizens.  But as citizens of Hungary, the Roma, literally “the people” in Romani, deserve equal opportunity and treatment.

Despite having been settled in this region of Hungary for over 100 years, the people have been marginalized by Hungarian policy. They maintain distinct cultural practices and physical appearances that can distinguish them from ethnic Hungarians, but do to intense discrimination, they are often identified based on socio-economic factors rather than cultural ones.

Ferenc noted something that I think is very important to recognize--that if efforts to “integrate” the Roma into Hungarian society were successful, it would only be possible to identify them based on cultural and not socio-economic status. Similarly, in a truly integrated school, the percentage of the population of Roma students in higher education should be equal to the percentage of Roma in the overall population, some 10% rather than the current .01%. With such low levels of education, the Roma lack an elite population capable of participating in politics and representing the interests of their people.

Reforms in education are therefore desperately needed, if they are going to be able to have any chance of gaining political influence and the ability to affect change in policy to reduce the amount of institutional discrimination. And widespread improvements in access to quality education will only be possible if Hungarians are able to stop blaming the country’s problems on the cultural differences of this minority.

I think it is important here to point out that when discussing these issues, we often say that “they,” referring to the Hungarians, are being unjust and inhumane with regards to the Roma. But especially now, we must recognize that we too are culpable of ostracizing the “others"  in our own country. Many claim that the “biggest issue in Hungary is gypsy crime” just as many people in the US blame reduced availability of jobs and high crime rates on illegal immigrants and our Hispanic populations in general.

We must now take what we have learned about this repressed people and take the anger and frustration we have felt about their unjust treatment and apply it to the marginalized populations of the US. We must recognize that these problems are not unique to this region or people. Furthermore, we must realize that many of the root causes of injustice and solutions are very similar.

Although we may have little ability to influence change here in Hungary, we do have the ability to prevent the discrimination taking place in our own state.

In both cases, education will play a vital role in achieving equality. We must fight to educate both the oppressors and the oppressed. We must challenge long-held stereotypes. We must show Americans and Hungarians alike that it is flaws in the basic systems and not actions or characteristics of their respective minorities that cause problems.

Furthermore, the oppressed must be educated on their rights and empowered with the right to vote. We must provide them with adequate representation by improving general conditions of education. We must not be “afraid to see clearly or to be seen clearly.” Only when we recognize our role in this inequality will we be able to improve the situation.

Tags: 09, dawn cole, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
May 28, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day Two

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Hugh Chung ('09)

Today, we began what Kata called the true "Day 1" of the trip.  After breakfast, the class was split into two groups, one to go on a walking tour and one to discuss travel plans at the Institute of International Education (IIE) office, with plans to switch roles after lunch.  Personally, I chose to go to IIE first while the others explored the Pest region of Budapest. It was very interesting to learn about the background of the organization that made all of this possible. IIE's goal is to give students abroad avenues to expand their minds and perceptions by getting them involved in a large scope of activities regarding a particular culture.

After having a thorough overview of the travel plans, I can confidently agree that they succeed to fulfill their goal. We meet some of the most respected people of the country as well as people of the struggling class. We get pampered with incredibly nice restaurants, but also have very down-to-earth experiences (literally) with picnics. Overall, I find that this will be a very eye-opening experience for all of us.

After the meeting we went out to lunch. I have noticed a recurring theme of soup, course, and dessert, but this was the first time many of us had ever tried a fruit soup, peach in particular. It was interesting to see how their culinary tradition was structured and how diverse it was. In addition, we were able to see the workers at the restaurant make their own strudel, which was also a unique experience for many of us. They also had various flavors not familiar in the states, such as poppyseed strudel.

While the group that visited Pest went to the IIE meeting after lunch, the rest of us saw a few sights in Pest, then took the bus and headed off to the more hilly and rural side of Buda. It was interesting to see the immense amount of history in the area and how it survived so many different social and political climates, including the two world wars. At the end of the day, we were able to meet with the foreign ambassador of Hungary. What was particularly interesting was that it was his last day in office. There we learned a lot about the political struggles Hungary has had with its neighboring countries and how dynamic its history is.

Tags: 09, hugh chung, hungaromania
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
May 27, 2010

On the Road 2010: Day One

Each summer the Flinn Scholars Program takes an entire class of Scholars to Budapest, Hungary, and neighboring Romania for a three-week seminar on the emerging democracies of Eastern Europe. Here’s a day-by-day account.

Allison Lambourne ('09)

Well, we made it! No volcano or strike could hold us back! The flights and airport layovers went extremely well, about as smooth as possible. And, of course, offered ample people watching time and subjects. A very tired group arrived at our beautiful hotel at about 11:30 pm Budapest time on the 26th. Today, the 27th, was filled with initial introductions to the city--so, basically a map, a public transportation pass, and a small scavenger hunt of places. Definitely the best way to get to know a city. 

Overall first impressions include the beauty and cleanliness of the city and its buildings. Squares (Hungarian 'ter') are scattered throughout the city and offer an unexpected but appreciated foresty-paradise for pedestrians; basically, there are mini-parks all over the place. Interesting sculptures, fountains, and stonework dominate the downtown area. 
 
Tonight, we were able to take a dinner cruise on the Danube River. It was extremely beautiful. We were fortunate to be joined by a group of Hungarian college students. The two groups thrown together, awkward at first, but chattering away within a few minutes, formed the perfect bunch. Not so different after all--college students (and all people) transcend oceans and geopolitical boundaries. A light rain and sunset set the perfect atmosphere for the end of our first full day in Budapest.

Tags: 09, allison lambourne, hungaromania
Michael_young-author-small_thumb Michael Cochise Young
Apr 06, 2010

Flinn Scholars: The Next Generation

The Flinn Scholar class of 1986

Flinn Scholars and Flinn Foundation staff have known that the moment would come eventually. And last night, we learned that it was drawing closer.

At the fifth of our six information sessions around the state for future applicants for the Flinn Scholarship, I was explaining the application process as I normally do--applications available in August, due in October, with semifinalist interviews in January and finalist interviews in March... And then a hand went up in the back of the room.

"That's a little different than it used to be, isn't it? I was in the first class of Flinn Scholars."

The other attendees at the session burst into applause for the speaker, who revealed herself afterwards as Rebecca Bruner, attending the session with her daughter, a would-be applicant for the 2011 Scholarship.

Rebecca was known to the Scholars Program in 1986 as Becky Kelly when she graduated from McClintock High School and took a leap of faith, accepting an unproven scholarship offered by a foundation that, truth be told, wasn't familiar to many Arizonans.

Twenty-five years later, the community of Flinn Scholars is nearing the 500 mark. Exactly when we will have a second-generation Flinn Scholar is anyone's guess, given the rigor and impartiality of the application process. But the day is approaching.

 

Tags: 86, application season, rebecca bruner
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Mar 02, 2010

The direction of our daily and nightly work

1999 Flinn Scholar Jon Gandomi works for the U.S. Department of State in Kabul, Afghanistan

Around this time of year in 1999, Jon Gandomi was a Mesa Dobson High School senior, about to interview for the Flinn Scholarship. Now he is a career employee of the U.S. Department of State, living in Kabul, Afghanistan, where he is a "secondee" to the United Nations Development Programme.

Click through for a letter Jon recently wrote describing some of his experiences and observations after several months in Afghanistan.

Jon is the first Flinn Scholar to serve in Afghanistan. Scholar alum Jonathan Rovey('99), a member of the Arizona National Guard, is currently stationed in Iraq. David Ng ('94) was stationed in Baghdad for a year as a career member of the U.S. Foreign Service.

Tags: 99, afghanistan, jon gandomi, state department
Globe-small_thumb Travel Dispatches
Feb 22, 2010

Forward Operating Base Delta

Flinn Scholar alum Jonathan Rovey, deployed with the Arizona National Guard to Iraq

Flinn Scholar alumnus Jonathan Rovey, a 1999 graduate of Cottonwood Mingus High School, is a tax accountant in Tucson. He's also a helicopter pilot for the Arizona National Guard, and in December, he deployed to Iraq.

Click through for selections from email letters Jonathan sent home in December and January describing his experiences, along with photos from his journey so far.

Jonathan is the second Flinn Scholar to serve in Iraq, following David Ng ('94), who was stationed in Baghdad for a year as a career member of the U.S. Foreign Service. Scholar alumnus Jon Gandomi ('99), like Ng a U.S. State Department employee, is currently stationed in Kabul, Afghanistan.

Tags: 99, iraq, jonathan rovey, national guard
Matt_badge-small_thumb Matt Ellsworth
Nov 27, 2009

"Tell me, why Arizona?"

When Ryan Johnson ('02) was living in Santiago, Chile, on one of his study-travel experiences as a Flinn Scholar from the University of Arizona, he witnessed a facet of Chilean public transportation that, undoubtedly, thousands of visiting students have observed: the buses drove fast. And consequently, they were involved in terrible and frequent accidents.

What Ryan did next provided a fairly good indication of the career path for which he was bound. He studied the problem, discovering that drivers were paid per passenger--meaning that, the faster they drove between stops, the more they would earn. He wrote about his findings in a paper that was featured in a World Bank publication; not long after, Santiago's public-transportation regulations were revised to match the alternative, safer system that Ryan had proposed.

Here's what Ryan has been doing lately.


Flinn Scholar Ryan Johnson ('02) is a consultant for McKinsey and Company in Africa

Now that I’ve transferred to the Johannesburg office of McKinsey & Company, my employer, I’m experiencing a range of challenges I never experienced working for U.S. institutions. 

On a recent study for a South African government agency (footnote: we keep the specific names of clients confidential), we were working for the minister to develop an action plan in the face of the recession. McKinsey advises top executives (or in this case, government officials) across the world on their most important strategic matters. On this study that meant figuring out what to do when a government revenue increase turns into a decrease, yet the government already promised to increase services.

The problem was challenging enough, and then one day from the team room we heard a series of horns. It sounded like a soccer match. I asked my teammates, “is that a vuvuzela?” Then we heard more noise. Finally, we went outside and realized the employees were on strike.

So instead of discussing the long-term impact of the recession, for that day’s meeting we starting preparing to discuss what to do about the strike.

On another study working for a parastatal infrastructure company, I learned that the pace of African business can be a bit… slow.  I had invited a dozen clients to a workshop I was giving on the future of one of the company’s main divisions. It was very important to have everyone there to agree on the vision. When the meeting started, nobody was there. Thirty minutes later we had a handful, and the last one came a full three hours after the meeting started. I wish I could say this was an isolated incident. 

Working in Africa can sometimes be stressful like that, but now I just laugh and say, it’s all part of the adventure.

McKinsey consultants typically rotate studies every three or four months, so I get exposed to a range of industries, business functions, and geographies. I love the chance to work at a railroad terminal one month, and the next month work for the head of marketing for a leading computer company, and then work for a government agency in Africa. Now that I’m based in Johannesburg, I’ll have the chance to work all over Sub-Saharan Africa on our wide range of clients here.

My international experience started with the Flinn Scholars' Eastern European seminar and travel grants. In addition to an appreciation for the growth and opportunity that comes from international exposure, it helped me uncover my passion, transportation. Ever since Flinn travel to Santiago, Chile, where I studied how certain bus-driver contracts were causing dozens of incremental traffic deaths per year, I have had an interest in understanding public and private transportation issues.

I later interned at the United Nations and World Bank working on transportation projects, and then studied informal transportation on a Fulbright Grant in Brazil.

After Brazil, I started with McKinsey & Company, where I sought to understand how the world of global business and institutions works. McKinsey is the world’s leading management-consulting firm, and it is the second-most desired employer (after Google) for business-school graduates. It is also one of the most sought-after employers at Ivy League undergraduate institutions.

McKinsey and Flinn Scholars have a long history together. Besides me, Kaleen Love ('96), Brian Lutz ('97), and Brook Rosenbaum ('94) are currently at the firm. In addition, Kim (Starkey) Jonker ('89), Ben Driggs ('90), and Ian Larkin ('91) all spent time there.

Larkin, now a professor at Harvard Business School, was on my Flinn selection committee and instantly became a mentor. As our conversations progressed from what classes to take freshman year to what to do after school, he convinced me McKinsey was a great place to start a career for the exposure to senior executives and for the exit opportunities it creates.

My first interview question with McKinsey was, "Tell me, why Arizona?" And I knew that the story of the Flinn, the doors it opened, and the experiences it led to would make me stand out from the crowd. The Flinn Scholars program produces individuals and leaders who are very compelling, not just to grad schools, but to employers.

I plan to take next summer off to enjoy the World Cup and travel around Africa. Afterwards, I may stay at McKinsey, go to business school, or look for a position somewhere in Brazil, Africa, or the U.S.

 

Tags: 02, africa, business management, chile, ryan johnson
Matt_badge-small_thumb Matt Ellsworth
Nov 20, 2009

The change-makers of the world

As an undergraduate at the University of Arizona, Flinn Scholar Michelle Yang ('99) majored in international studies, interned with the U.S. State Department in South Korea, and founded a program offering mentorship to children adopted to the United States from China. In 2005, when she was working for Tucson-based Commonwealth Adoptions International Inc., she was named by the Tucson YWCA as one of 13 "Women on the Move."

Here are some of Michelle's reflections on what she has been doing since.


Michelle Yang, 1999 Flinn Scholar, recently finished her MBA at the University of Washington

It’s been ten years since we were announced as the Flinn Class of 1999.

We were told to be the newsmakers of tomorrow, the change-makers of the world.

I look at my peers and I’m so proud. Not only proud of the milestones we have reached, but of the people we have grown into. We’ve seen each other at our worst and our best. We’ve known and felt each others’ heartbreaks, failures, and successes.

Upon graduating from the University of Arizona with dreams of becoming a Foreign Service officer, I worked in international adoption for three years as a program director for adoptions from Taiwan and as a communications director. After completing a stint at the US Embassy in Seoul, Korea, my dreams evolved into nonprofit management.

I moved to Seattle to get my MBA from the Foster School of Business at the University of Washington, emphasizing in nonprofit management and taking electives from the School of Social Work.

During my years at UW, I led a team in the Global Social Entrepreneurship Competition. Our project sought to raise funds for the Rwanda Girls Initiative, where I worked with Washington community leaders to build a secondary school for girls in a region of Rwanda especially hard hit by the genocide. The Gashora Girls Academy is now in construction stage with the community center to be completed in January 2010.

I am now the Fund Development and Alumnae Relations Managers at the Girl Scouts of Western Washington. I’ve been in my current role for almost four months now. I love knowing that every day, I am advocating for girls and working to instill in them a strong sense of confidence and leadership.

Thinking of my fellow Flinn Scholars, I recognize that our stories and dreams may be different, but our shared experiences abroad and in school have connected us and shaped us in such a unique way. The Flinn Foundation has played a pivotal role in who I am today.

Tags: 99, michelle yang, nonprofit management
« Previous 1 3 4 5 6 7